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March 2009
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In
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Slow Food
key words
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Co-producer
Slow Food is promoting a new approach to food consumption.
To highlight the fact that consumers can stimulate decisive
changes in the agrifood sector, Slow Food coined the term
co-producer. This word is intended to indicate a consum-actor
who maintains a close relationship with small farmers,
fishermen, livestock breeders, producers of wine or cheese.
The consumer not only purchases from these people but
asks them for information and advice so as to recognize
qualitative differences and be able to eat in a healthier,
tastier and more responsible way. With more aware and
informed consumers—co-producers—farmers are
more motivated to work using traditional techniques that
assure product biodiversity and quality.
< Return to Index >
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From
table to land... |
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Slow Fish in Genoa
The future of
the sea is built through Taste Education |
Taste Education is one of the main themes of Slow Fish
2009 (Genoa, April 17-20), as being able to choose fish
is important, not only for gastronomic pleasure, but also
for our health, our wallets and the environment. Among
the many educational activities in this year's Slow Fish
program you will find: :
- Water Workshops, to extend people’s
knowledge of issues connected with the sea and fishing;
- Guided shopping at the market, with
the help of a personal shopper to discover the
incredible variety of fish in the sea and learn to recognize
a quality fish when buying;
- those wanting to venture further afield can go on fishing
tourism trips in professional boats;
- the space for good practices will present
innovative and replicable methods of applied ecology.
Visitors will also be able to browse in the Slow
Fish Bookshop or relax to the sounds of Slow
in Music, because as Terra Madre has shown, musical
traditions are also a valuable record of an area and its
culture.
More information and the full program are available on
the
Slow Fish website.
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Food
on Air
In Benin, the
Cotonou convivium is using radio and television
to educate their fellow countrymen |
Prosper has been interested
in food issues for a long time. A trained agronomist,
he is currently a government employee at the Office for
Food Safety in Benin’s capital, Cotonou.
Those ideas he can’t implement in a professional
capacity, he develops in his private life through the
Nourriture Saine Bénin convivium. The convivium,
which he founded, now has 17 active and enthusiastic members,
including his wife, two children, and a number of small
producers. Nourriture Saine Bénin has an ambitious
goal: to make the public aware of the benefits of healthy
local food. For this purpose he organizes meetings of
2-3 hours to which cooks, consumers and media representatives
are invited; the participants come into direct contact
with products and producers and are informed about the
nutritional properties of local food (sweet banana, baobab
fruit, rice). These meetings often lead to direct purchase
contracts with producers. The convivium also prepares
informational material, radio presentations and CDs about
some of the local products and cultures, which are sent
to local and national radio, TV and information agencies.
These efforts have resulted in, for example, four broadcasts
about rice cultivation, the benefits and importance of
eating local rice. Nourriture Saine Bénin is currently
collaborating with three newspapers, two TV companies
and about twenty radio stations. Some programs are broadcast
in local languages. The choice of topic and presentation
aim to increase the educational impact, and highlight
the outstanding work of producers, the dignity and cultural
pride embodied in such a simple act as eating.
For more infoermation:
Prosper Monde
mondeprospere@gmail.com
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to Index >
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Presidia
on the menu
An alliance between
Slow Food Presidia and chefs |
In early 2009 Slow Food Italy is launching a new project:
the creation of an alliance between the 177 Slow Food
Italian Presidia and chefs interested in presenting Presidia
products—particularly local ones—on their
menus. The aim is to showcase Slow Food projects to a
wide public, stimulating interest about initiatives set
up to defend biodiversity.
Organized by regional coordinating teams, Italian convivia
will be involved in enlisting support from chefs in their
area who share Slow philosophy. Chefs will indicate the
presence of Presidia products on their menus with a new
symbol carrying the name of the producer. Slow Food will
communicate information and publicize the restaurants
where Presidia products can be eaten. The project will
culminate with alliance dinners organized at each of the
participating restaurants in early summer 2009. Part of
the proceeds will be donated to the Slow Food Presidia
project.
For further information about the project, contact Tiziana
Gazzera, tel. +39 0172 419643 t.gazzera@slowfood.it
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...from land to table
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Help
Us to be Heard
An appeal from
the communities of Madagascar
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Madagascar has featured in the
newspapers recently because of demonstrations in the
capital, poverty, and the political conflict between
the capital’s mayor and the country’s President.
However there haven’t been many reports about
what is happening in the rural areas and how most of
the people will be affected.
The South Korean multinational Daewoo Logistic has obtained
the right to lease land—for 99 years, or two generations!—covering
1.3 million hectares, or half of all the arable land
in Madagascar. It plans to produce corn and palm oil.
The Koreans state that if the contract is successful,
they will build roads, schools, hospitals etc, but the
other side of the coin is the prospect of impoverishment
and social destabilization. Thousands of small farmers
will be transformed into wage earners tending intensive
monocultures and food shortfalls will be aggravated
since harvests are intended for export.
“The government states that the project is still
being evaluated. But the president and general director
of Daewoo have confirmed the agreement has been approved,
regional heads have signed the contract and are marking
the boundaries of the lots” writes Rindra Andriambola,
coordinator of the red rice community, adding, “It’s
terrible!!! The small farmers can’t do anything
to oppose this giant company. All we can do is mourn the
loss of our ancestral land, which we have tried to conserve
to the best of our ability. We don’t know if this
company is going to use GM seeds and chemical products.
We hoped to escape poverty by accessing the organic market,
but now we no longer know what to do. We are trying to
organize a mass protest and hope you will help us to be
heard” by
signing our petition or
writing to:
- Monsieur Panja RAMANOELINA, Ministre de l'Agriculture
de l'Elevage et de la Pêche. BP 301, Anosy Antananarivo
MADAGASCAR
- Monsieur RATOHIARIJAONA Rakotoarisolo Suzelin, Directeur
de l'Appui à l'Organisation des Producteurs auprès
du Ministère de l'Agriculture, de l'Elevage et
de la Pêche. BP 301, Anosy Antananarivo MADAGASCAR
email : daop@maep.gov.mg
Rindra Andriambola
andriambolar@yahoo.fr
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Index >
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The
RSA Link
New Restaurant
Supported Agriculture scheme to support local food
production |
Terra Madre Chef David Swanson of Milwaukee’s Braise
Culinary School last summer started a local RSA, or Restaurant
Supported Agriculture program. Following the principles
of the CSA (Community Supported Agriculture) scheme, in
which residents make an upfront payment to a local farm
for a season of fresh produce, restaurants enter into
an agreement with local producers and pre-pay a portion
of their costs. This allows producers to have a better
cash flow at the beginning of the growing season, but
as David explains, the program brings benefits to both
parties: ‘a steady supply of products at a better
cost along with saving the chef/owner time in foraging
for items and upfront payments which allow better cash
flow to create greater efficiencies on the farm and using
up surplus’.
‘I have been sourcing locally for my entire chef
career. Learning to use what was in season and at the
market under French chefs taught me the value of good
food. Working in different parts of the country, each
with unique circumstances with regard to using local food,
exposed me to many different approaches. Upon settling
in Milwaukee and understanding the challenges, I began
creating a system to make it easier to source locally
and from that grew the RSA,’ said David.
Click
here to read the full interview with David
on the SF USA site.
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Otilia
the Cook meets Nadia the Slow Producer
Otilia Kusmin,
a cook in the Terra Madre network from Argentina,
describes her experiences following Terra Madre
2008 |
"At Terra Madre one of the recommendations made by
the network of cooks was to “adopt” an artisan
producer, so we could together create a relationship leading
to benefits for the sustainability of our menus and for
their production efforts.
At the event I met Nadia, a representative of the Río
Negro Province farming community. I was immediately impressed
by her enthusiasm and the Slow project she intends to
develop, as well as her keenness to collaborate.
Nadia is 21 and studying organic agriculture at university,
but also works in a local school where she teaches children
and their families to use organic cultivation methods
and to make preserves. In addition, she and her family
manage 140 hectares of land in Patagonia where they raise
sheep and cattle naturally and produce organic fruit and
vegetables. Honey, bread, desserts, artisan beer, cheese
and yoghurt are all produced and they have also initiated
a project to gather traditional recipes. The resulting
book contains 100 dishes using local products, such as
those from Nadia’s fields or the local school garden.
The cookbook is now being used in the school canteen and
the young students have taken copies home. The farm also
offers some accommodation, and supports the development
of ecotourism in the region.
This experience has enriched my personal and professional
life, as well as helping me to rediscover simple but surprising
dishes which my grandmother used to make using produce
from the vegetable garden.
I didn’t want to miss this opportunity to tell you
how rewarding it can be to create a link between a cook
and a producer: all the Terra Madre cooks should do it!"
Otilia Kusmin
Terra Madre cook, Argentina
otilia@fibertel.com.ar
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Voices
from
Terra Madre
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Dutch
Shepherdess on the Heath |
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Each
morning we take our 600 Drenthe Heath
Sheep, the oldest European breed, out
onto the balloërveld (heathland)
to graze, as farmers have done before
us since the Middle Ages in this northeastern
corner of The Netherlands. While industrial
farming, hypermarkets and chain restaurants
are increasingly the norm, we are quietly
continuing a tradition that gives us and
those who visit us a great deal of pleasure,
is important for the local environment,
and is helping to revive a rare breed
that provides a delicious, organic meat
for the local market...
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Marianne
Duinkerken
Mail: gakeck@aol.com
Click
here
to read the rest of Marianne Duinkerken’s
story on the Terra Madre website.
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The Drenthe Heath Sheep and the Kempen Heath Sheep recently
became the newest of some 300 Slow Food Presidia worldwide.
Special thanks to all the individuals who brought these
native breeds to the attention of Slow Food and worked
long and hard to attain Presidium status. Both food
communities have successfully brought together sheep
farmers with the local Slow Food convivium, chefs, butchers,
and local agricultural and environmental groups to work
to preserve these two wonderful and important native
sheep breeds. They embody the collaborative spirit necessary
for our goals.
More information on the Presidia can be found
here.
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Food
Traditions
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Reindeer
Suovas To Go
Newly formed
Slow Food Sápmi promotes production of
this traditional cured fillet
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Members of one of Slow Food’s
newest convivia—Slow Food Sápmi—have
been active in the Terra Madre network for many years
and launched a Presidium several years ago to promote
the production of suovas, a salted and smoked
reindeer fillet which is one of the region’s oldest
food traditions. Sámi are the indigenous people
of northern Europe who inhabit the area called Sápmi,
an arc of land sweeping across northern Sweden, Finland,
Norway and Russia. While they traditionally relied on
a variety of livelihoods, including coastal fishing,
fur trapping, and sheep herding, their food supply is
almost entirely dependent on the giant herds of reindeer.
Much of the traditional Sámi food was developed
to remain edible for the long periods when these nomadic
people were on the move and suovas are one
of the most traditional preparations of reindeer meat.
True suovas are prepared by dry-salting meat
and smoking fillets from the upper leg of the reindeer
in a traditional peaked hut for eight hours over an
open fire. Once smoked, the fillets are thinly sliced
and grilled over an open fire or eaten raw, and are
often accompanied by pickled mushrooms or lingonberries.
Suovas, meaning smoked in the indigenous language,
or rökt in Swedish, were traditionally packed by
Sámi along with unleavened bread to eat on long
trips and today, you can find suovas served
in Nordic flatbread at some festivals.
Contact:
Convivium leader Lars-Ove Jonsson
lars-ove@sapmi.com
For more information on the Reindeer Suovas
Presidium click
here.
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In
print, On screen
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Red
Carpet Rolled-out
Launch of documentary
on Terra Madre communities at international film
festival
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A key attraction in this year’s
Culinary Cinema line-up at the Berlinale international
film festival, was the world premiere of Italian director
Ermanno Olmi’s documentary Terra Madre
on February 6. In this production inspired by the Terra
Madre network of food communities, internationally renowned
Olmi delivers a powerful message about the critical
issue of food, and its economic, environmental and social
implications. Terra Madre was conceived in 2006 by Ermanno
Olmi and Slow Food president Carlo Petrini, united by
their passion for the work and values of the farmers
and others gathered at the international Terra Madre
gathering in Turin.
Click
here to read a review of the film
< Return to
Index >
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Slow
Food on Film Program |
The international festival of food
and film supported by Slow Food and the Cineteca of
Bologna will be held over May 6-10 in Bologna. The day
by day program as well as the 'program in brief' can
be downloaded at: www.slowfoodonfilm.com
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Index >
Food
for Thought
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Can
Sustainable Agriculture Feed the World?
Georges Desrues
interviews Michael Pollan
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The honest answer is: we don't
know, because we haven’t tried. However, we have
to equally figure out how to run an industrial civilization
with less fossil fuel, we have to figure out how to
grow food with less fossil fuel. There is a lot of evidence
that it can be done. We have seen small farms that are
more productive than big farms. We have seen that polycultures,
which require less fossil fuel, can grow more real food.
We have to keep in mind that all this high-yield commodity
agriculture is not producing real food. Fifty percent
of what we are growing is feed for animals and another
ten percent is food for our cars. Ethanol and biofuel
are industrial raw materials, not food people can eat.
If we would grow food people can actually eat, there
would be plenty of land. I question the assumption of
the argument that you need industrial agriculture to
feed the world. We are not feeding the world. We are
feeding animals and cars and people are going hungry
with this system. The Slow Food idea of growing real
food near to where people are going to eat it has enormous
potential. But it will take a lot of time and work.
We will need to put into polycultural agriculture the
kind of research and development dedicated to industrial
food systems.
Extract from an interview published in the Italian
magazine Slowfood N°38.
To read the whole interview, click
here.
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Slow Food and Terra Madre
“As soon as an idea begins to take
shape, it begins to die” wrote the Polish
sociologist Zygmunt Bauman. Yet without organization,
even the most compelling ideas fade away. They remain
abstract suggestions far removed from people’s
everyday life and experience.
Slow Food’s ideal aspiration is Terra Madre.
Our association has no intention of keeping it in
check. We want it to grow and propagate as an uncontrolled
network comprising thousands of different parties
(producers, cooks, students, musicians…),
proposals, cultures and languages... But at the
same time we want to avoid seeing its thousands
of expressions become dispersed, weakening the effectiveness
of their message.
Slow Food wants to be the thread holding the Terra
Madre network together.
Our association will draw on the ideals of Terra
Madre, highlighting its activities and practical
solutions. It will help to stimulate new projects,
promote opinion campaigns and organize support.
We will try to do this without imposing or curbing
enthusiasm. We are sure it is possible for pleasure
to be compatible with social commitment, the table
with the land.
This newsletter is in a new enhanced form and each
month will bring the joint voices of Slow Food and
Terra Madre to people’s homes, to associations,
and convivia. It will speak in eight languages,
describing the daily lives and achievements of those
who enable us to make progress towards a cleaner,
more sustainable and pleasant world, richer in diversity
and local cultures. A Slow world.
Carlo Petrini
President of Slow Food International
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| Join
a great international |
community
that defends sustainable agriculture, fishing
and breeding.
Celebrate the pleasure that the finest foods in
the world offer us in all their variety.
servicecentre
@slowfood.com
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CALENDAR
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Markt
des guten Geschmacks
April 02-05, 2009
Stuttgart, Germany
Slow
Fish
April 17-20, 2009
Genoa, Italy
Horeca
April 27-30, 2009
Beirut, Lebanon
Slow
Food on Film
May 06-10, 2009
Bologna, Italy
Terra Madre Tanzania
May 29-30, 2009
Dar Es Salam, Tanzania
Journées Gastronomiques
Nord Sud
June 18-20, 2009
Libreville, Gabon
Cheese
September 18-21, 2009
Bra, Italy
Terra Madre Austria
October 28-29, 2009
Vienna, Austria
EURO
GUSTO & Terra Madre for Young Europeans
November 27-30, 2009
Tours, France
ALGUSTO
– Saber y Sabor
December 11-14, 2009
Bilbao, Spain
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Slow Food and
Terra Madre
in figures
Members: 100.000
Convivia: 1.000
Countries: 130
Presidia: 300
Ark of Taste products: 810
Earth Markets: 9
School gardens: 243
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Slow Food Almanac
The Slow Food Almanac 2008 has been published
recently in English, Italian, Spanish, German, French.
you can view an electronic version of the Almanac
here.
communication
@slowfood.com
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What Slow Food and Terra Madre
mean to me...
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I
am a 24 year-old man who recently "woke up"
from a mental lethargy that had lasted far too long.
Trapped by technology, focused on myself and afraid
to speak my mind, I had allowed myself to be controlled
and dominated by a society and customs I had never
really believed in.
It may be a little presumptuous to say I have changed,
but I think I am on the right track. To get back
to the topic—for me Slow Food is a way of
being, a mental state. In a world where appearances
matter more than content, I have decided to say
no to many things.
Above all I oppose the total violation of Nature.
I am appalled to see ecosystems destroyed, animals
treated as worthless consumer goods crammed into
cages and killed without scruple or restraint. I
am sick to see the plants and gifts of the earth
being wasted and completely undervalued.
It hurts me to the core and if in my small way I
can do something, I intend to help. I want genuine
food, fresh air, a balanced world and happy people.
That is what Slow Food is for me. |
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Matthew
Coss
Treviso
Italy
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