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May 2009

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Editorial
by Carlo Petrini

Slow Food key words
Terra Madre

From land to table...

Grandmother's Day
Slow Food Ireland sets the example

From the University of Gastronomic Sciences to Cuba
A Terra Madre Cuba community welcomes 15 students

Earth Market

An agreement between Lebanon and Tuscany signed in Beirut

The Influence of Arab Sweets
In Spain, the Zaragoza convivium explores the roots of its traditional regional pastries

A Peasant Meal of the 1830s
The Maltese convivium gives its members a taste of the past


Voices from Terra Madre
Travel Notes
Giuseppe Gajarin, coordinator of two Italian Presidia, describes his visit to the Cape Verde Presidium

Food Traditions
Reed salt from the Nzoia River in Kenya

In Print, on Screen
Slow Food on Film
Food, Inc. wins the Golden Snail award for Best Documentary

Food for Thought
Men Eating Fish
Extract from an article by John Volpe     

Campaign
Slow Fish
The Future of Seeds in Europe
An Appeal to Defend Rosé

 
     




Slow Food
key words
 

Terra Madre
Terra Madre is a network made up of people wanting to preserve and promote sustainable methods of food production in harmony with nature, landscape and traditions. There is a particular focus on local areas, plant varieties and animal species which over the centuries have adapted to different natural environments. The Terra Madre family is continually growing and striving to defend local products and gastronomic cultures. The Terra Madre food communities put Slow Food’s ideas about quality into practice, based on the three concepts of good, clean and fair.
Terra Madre is a Slow Food project created to protect, support and give a voice to small producers. It also aims to change the system which is causing such damaging effects by harnessing the efforts of those who can influence future policies through their everyday decisions and choices: consumers, chefs and cooks, schools, research bodies, non-government organizations, associations, young people etc. A significant impact can only be achieved by propagating local actions within a global vision.

For more information:
www.terramadre.org



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 From land to table...


Grandmother's Day
Slow Food Ireland sets the example

Ireland – We all celebrate Mother's Day - but what about grandmothers? And grandfathers? There has never been a day to honor them. Until now... As proposed by myself and Alice Waters at the last Terra Madre gathering in Turin, the first Slow Food Grandmothers’ Day was held, on April 25, to get children together with granny for a day in the kitchen.

Ten Irish convivia held a celebration. East Cork Slow Food, for example, linked up with The Irish Examiner (a national newspaper that enthusiastically embraced and supported the idea) to run a competition where grandchildren sent in the favorite recipe they like to cook with their grandparents. The winners came to the Ballymaloe Cookery School and grandparents showed their grandchildren how to cook. An art competition was also organized, with six local schools, where children had to draw or paint a picture of "Cooking with Granny". There was a huge response: the pictures gave a wonderful glimpse into the very special and precious bond with grandparents.

In Waterford, a whole group of grannies and grandchildren joined The Four Rivers Convivium. They reminisced about their childhood and passed on recipes, having lots of fun.
Even national television gave us an opportunity to encourage parents all over the country to gather their grandchildren around them to pass on inherited skills, bake a cake, catch a fish, sow a seed, knit, crochet, sing a song, play a tin whistle…but particularly how to cook.

I am myself a grandmother of 6 precious grandchildren. Together, we dug the first of the new potatoes, pulled some baby carrots and little beets the size of table tennis balls. We washed and cooked the vegetables, roasted a duck and peeled some apples to make sauce. Then we all sat down around the kitchen table and had a delicious convivial supper where the children ate every single scrap. Finally, they drew a picture of digging potatoes with grandma and we wrote down the recipes for our simple supper - we plan to make this a monthly event.
We’ve started the ball rolling here in Ireland - I have no doubt that the idea will continue to gather momentum and that next year Grandmother’s Day will be bigger, better and truly international.

Darina Allen
Slow Food Councilor for Ireland
info@slowfoodireland.com


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From the University of Gastronomic Sciences to Cuba
A Terra Madre Cuba community welcomes 15 students


Cuba - The Cuban community Proyecto Comunitario Conservación de Alimentos and the Faculty of Agriculture of Havana University (also part of the Terra Madre network), organized a visit to Cuba in March for 15 students from the University of Gastronomic Sciences (Pollenzo, Italy).

Proyecto Comunitario was set up in 1996 in a western district of Havana. It aims to introduce and promote sustainable natural methods that are suitable for local conditions and respect the environment—methods which encourage a healthy lifestyle and the democratic participation of local communities.

The volunteers working on the project are mainly involved in the production, transformation, preservation and consumption of food. They manage small and medium-sized family and community vegetable gardens, use solar driers and make preserves. The organic gardens grow more than 120 plant species: vegetables, tubers, small fruits and medicinal herbs. The Project also endeavors to improve the standard of local food culture. The work carried out by this Terra Madre community has become an example for the urban agriculture movement throughout Cuba.

The students from the University of Gastronomic Sciences—from Germany, Kenya, Switzerland and Italy—were able to exchange information with producers, teachers and coordinators involved with local gastronomy in five of the country's provinces, from Pinar del Rio in the west to Santiago de Cuba in the east. As well as learning about the island’s gastronomic situation, they were able to visit places of historic, social and cultural interest.


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Earth Markets
An agreement between Lebanon and Tuscany signed in Beirut

Lebanon - Hamra lies in the heart of Beirut, surrounded by large buildings of concrete and glass, shopping malls, Western brands (from Nike to Radio Shack) and oppressive traffic, but there is a small oasis: a street just a few hundred meters long where small farmers from the surrounding area come to sell their products every Thursday morning. Here you can find Arab bread, kechek (ground corn seasoned with herbs in olive oil), sumac (a dark red spice with a lemony taste), mwaraka (a thinly rolled pastry filled with walnuts, almonds and honey), cedar honey and aromatic herbs...

This is the Hamra Earth Market, the pride of Slow Food Beirut. On Tuesday April 28, Hamra hosted producers from three Tuscan Earth Markets who had come to Lebanon to present their products (including extravirgin olive oil, wine, pecorino cheese and Orbetello bottarga) and conclude an international agreement.

The agreement (involving the Tuscan and Lebanese Earth Markets together with Slow Food Tuscany and Slow Food Beirut) was officially signed on April 29 at Horeka (the most important food fair in the Middle East). Underlining the importance of this agreement, representatives of Lebanese and Italian institutions attended the ceremony: the Italian Ambassador in Beirut, the Director of ICE (the Italian Institute for Foreign Trade), the Director of the Lebanese Ministry of Agriculture, together with representatives of the Tuscany Regional Authority and the municipality of Montevarchi (location of the first Earth Market), the NGO UCODEP, Italian Cooperation and the Slow Food Foundation for Biodiversity.

The main objective of the agreement is to maintain continuous cooperation and assistance between Tuscan and Lebanese Earth Markets through the exchange of information and common promotional initiatives. A further demonstration that Slow Food projects always have strong local roots but a global perspective and vision.



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The Influence of Arab Sweets
The Zaragoza convivium explores the roots of its traditional regional pastries   

Spain - During May, thirty people attended eight courses organized by the Zaragoza convivium to study the Arab origins of traditional local pastries and confectionery. In the Middle Ages - when Zaragoza was called Medina Albaida - honey, flour and dried fruit were the basic ingredients of its sweet pastries. The city now has one of the three most important remaining examples of Hispano-Islamic architecture in the country: the Aljafería Palace. It should therefore be no surprise that the pastries and confectionery of the Maghreb closely resemble Zaragoza’s traditional products. The convivium asked Fátima Zerargui, owner of the Arab pastry shop Las tres estrellas (situated in the Avenida Conde de Aranda, the most multicultural part of the city) to illustrate the basics of traditional Zaragoza pastries through some classical Arab recipes such as almond and walnut pastry, gazelle horn and oriental brik pastries. The courses also included a program of Arab music.

For further information contact Jorge Hernandez, leader of the Zaragoza convivium: jhernandez@aragon.es

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A Peasant Meal of the 1830s
The Maltese convivium gives its members a taste of the past

Malta – Carmel Cassar was one of the academics at the last Terra Madre gathering in Turin. Focused on the idea of passing traditional knowledge on to younger generations, he and a lecturer from the ITS (Institute for Tourism Studies) brought three students with them from Malta. Once home from the event, Carmel decided to put his ideals into practice locally and, together with a small group of other dedicated and passionate people, founded the new Slow Food Malta Convivium. They are now proud to announce their first activity: “A Peasant Meal of the 1830s – the experience”. The menu chosen for the occasion offers a taste and an insight into the culinary practices of Maltese peasants in the first half of the 19th century. The food being especially prepared for the occasion includes maslin bread, which is a type of coarse bread made using a mixture of several grains normally eaten by Maltese country people. The activity aims to highlight local Maltese food, most of which used to be produced locally by the peasant farmers. The meal is being held in conjunction with the Centre of Cultural and Heritage Studies (Institute of Tourism Studies). Research on the original ingredients and food preparation was carried out by Prof Carmel Cassar himself and Noel Buttigieg, together with other members of Slow Food Malta and lecturers of the Institute of Tourism Studies. The meal is being prepared by student cooks of the Institute of Tourism Studies under the supervision of their lecturers, some of whom are members of Slow Food.


For more information, contact Carmel Cassar, leader of Slow Food Malta convivium: carmel.cassar@um.edu.mt


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Voices from Terra Madre

Travel Notes
Giuseppe Gajarin, coordinator of two Italian Presidia, describes his visit to the Cape Verde Presidium

 

Capo Verde - At Cheese 2006 I met Giuseppe Quaranta, a Turin university academic who is advising the Bolona Goat Cheese Presidium (Cape Verde). He asked whether I could provide some technical assistance, particularly on the use of milk starter. Cape Verde stimulated my imagination and gave me itchy feet. I browsed through brochures, looked at photos, listened to friends talking about their visits. But none of it could describe what I would see. From March 3 to 10, 2008 I had the chance to see the Presidium with my own eyes. The archipelago. The people......

 
     
  Giuseppe Gajarin
gaiarin.giampaolo@trentingrana.it



Click here to read Giuseppe Gajarin
 


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Food Traditions

Reed salt from the Nzoia River 

Kenya – In some areas of western Kenya - historically cut off from the main salt routes - local communities have developed a distinctive method for extracting salt from an aquatic plant.
This plant is a thin reed that grows in water from September to March and is cut at its base with sickle when mature. After harvesting it is placed to dry on rocks along the river for three or four days. It is then gathered and burned on a slow fire while still on the rocks. The residual ash is mixed with hot water and then filtered to remove sand and other impurities. The liquid is then poured into a large pan and boiled on an open fire. When it has completely evaporated, a pure greyish salty mixture is left on the bottom. It is collected and packed into banana leaves. This “salt” is dried inside the leaf packages by placing them under hot ashes overnight.

After the British arrived and built roads connecting the area to Lake Victoria, sea salt was introduced and the traditional product - obtained by a long and complex process - was gradually abandoned. It is still used in a few villages, mainly by diabetics and those with blood pressure problems.

Click here to read the full story on the Terra Madre site.


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In Print, On Screen

Slow Food on Film
Food, Inc. wins the Golden Snail award for Best Documentary 


A shock film about the American food industry triumphed at Slow Food on Film. Food, Inc. won the Golden Snail award and € 5,000 prize, collected by director Robert Kenner, for Best Documentary Film at the second edition of Slow Food on Film. According to the jury, “The film brings a powerful message to discussions about our disastrous global food situation. It tells the story of a very complex international food production system in a way that is understandable and informative while being impressively dramatic”.

The award for Best Short Documentary (€ 2,000) went to the Hungarian director Sándor Mohi and his Imádság (The Prayer), which describes five years in the life of an elderly farming couple. The jury praised it for “capturing the profound humanity of the main characters, and the simple emotions expressing their pain. It involves us in their lives and shows their close relationship with the land, which we feel to be ever more essential”.

The award for Best Short (€ 5,000) was won by Thé Noir (Black Tea) by French filmmaker Serge Elissalde. It was praised “for its stylistic elegance, originality and ability to develop a fascinating story with powerful symbolism; while not lacking a certain irony and closely portraying a dramatic everyday situation”.

The Food & Film Academy—the international jury appointed to choose the best feature film—selected Gianni Di Gregorio’s Pranzo di Ferragosto, and the award for Best TV Series went to Report by Milena Gabanelli.

Read the complete article on slowfood.com

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Food for Thought

Men Eating Fish
Extract from an article by John Volpe


You walk into your local food shop to gather some ingredients for the evening meal. You don’t have a menu in mind, you will build the meal around whatever looks particularly fresh and appetizing. Deciding to lead with the protein, you head to the butcher’s counter first. He has an embarrassment of riches on display; loin of Serengeti lion is on sale, but the French-cut rack of Canadian boreal forest wolf looks pretty special. Perhaps a roast owl would be good, but they are out of everything but great horned and that is too much for two. In the end you opt for convenience and go with a couple of ground polar bear patties ...
Does this seem surreal or over the top? Perhaps. Consider though that instead of the butcher’s counter, you make your way to the fishmonger’s instead…

Extract from an article by John Volpe, published in the Italian magazine Slowfood n°39.

Click here to read the whole article .


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Campaign


International Slow Fish Campaign

Don't forget the Slow Fish Challenge: send us your recipes which use local sustainable fish!
For further information on the Challenge click here.

More information on sustainable fish:
The End of the Line
International Documentary Feature Films winner at Sundance Festival

Sound the global alarm. Scientists predict that if we continue fishing at the current rate, the planet will run out of seafood by 2048 with catastrophic consequences. Based on the book by Charles Clover, The End of the Line explores the devastating effect that overfishing is having on fish stocks and the health of our oceans. With Clover as his guide, Sundance veteran Rupert Murray (Unknown White Male) crisscrosses the globe, examining what is causing the dilemma and what can be done to solve it. Industrial fishing began in the 1950s. High-tech fisheries now trawl the oceans with nets the size of football fields. Species cannot survive at the rate they are being removed from the sea. Add in cofactors of decades of bad science, corporate greed, small-minded governments, and escalating consumer demand, and we’re left with a crisis of epic proportions. Ninety percent of the big fish in our oceans are now gone. Murray interweaves glorious footage from both underwater and above with shocking scientific testimony to paint a vivid and alarming profile of the state of the sea. The ultimate power of The End of the Line is that it moves beyond doomsday rhetoric to proffer real solutions. Chillingly topical, The End of the Line drives home the message: the clock is ticking, and the time to act is now.

See the complete Sundance Festival review here.

Film website: www.endoftheline.com

 



  The Future of Seeds in Europe
Open letter for agricultural biodiversity and farmers’ collective rights

The governing body for the FAO ITPGRFA (International Treaty on Plant Genetic Resources for Food and Agriculture) will meet in Tunis from June 1 to 5. Discussions will focus on the sustainable use of agricultural biodiversity and farmers’ rights: their rights to keep, use, exchange and sell their seeds, preserve traditional knowledge, be involved in national and international decisions affecting biodiversity etc. These rights are not respected in most European countries.
We are making an appeal to farmer and consumer organizations, as well as environmental, civil rights and political associations to sign the open letter to be sent by May 20 to European governments, the European Commission and the Treaty Secretariat.
The initiative is promoted by various organizations involved in preserving traditional European seeds (Heritage Seed Library – UK; Interessengemeinschaft für gentechnikfreie Saatgutarbeit – Germany and Austria; Protect the Future - Hungary; Red de Semillas - Spain, Réseau Semences Paysannes - France, Rete Semi Rurali – Italy).

Download the complete text of the letter (in Italian)
To sign the open letter, click here.
For further information on the FAO Treaty, click here.




An Appeal to Defend Rosé

European regulations covering winemaking practices (CMO wine reform) have until now prohibited the mixing of white and red wines. With the revision of these rules this provision has now been removed, allowing white and red wines to be mixed to obtain a rosé-colored wine. Genuine "rosé" is produced through rapid and skilful pressing. Grape skins give the wine its color: the less time they are left in the juice, the lighter will be the resulting rosé. Every winemaker can then express their skill and terroir to achieve a high quality product. Allowing wines resembling rosé to be made using surplus whites, but at lower cost than a genuine rosé and at any time of the year, very much seems to be an opportunistic maneuver. Mixing white and red wines, which are generally experiencing weak demand at present, allows an attack on the market for rosé, which is currently growing.The sale of these blended wines, which can easily be confused with proper rosé, could destabilize the economies of traditional rosé producing regions.

There is a lot at stake and the rosé producing regions are presenting a common front through this petition. You are invited to sign it in order to defend rosé wine.
 



   


 
In April this year, the International Commission on the Future of Food and Agriculture produced an important new manifesto on the very important issue: the future of traditional knowledge After producing manifestos on the future of food, on seeds and on climate change, the International Commission on the Future of Food and Agriculture, instigated in 2003 by the president of the Tuscany Regional Authority Claudio Martini and by Vandana Shiva - and which I am proud to be involved with.

We are very aware how traditional ancestral knowledge about food is seriously endangered, together with biodiversity, ecosystems and the cultures which have been molded by them over the centuries.

This knowledge is of fundamental importance. It has too often been dismissed as nonscientific and of minor significance but in fact it describes a harmonious relationship with nature, showing us how to produce food sustainably and use resources in ways that respect limits. It tells us about practices, such as using renewable energies or recycling, which are extremely relevant in our current critical situation. So I firmly believe that the food communities will be key players in a third industrial revolution focused on clean production, and that they still have a lot to teach us.

An equal and respectful dialog needs to be established between traditional knowledge and official science so it can receive the dignity it deserves and its survival can be assured. The food communities teach us that remembering also means caring. The manifesto on the future of traditional knowledge aims to introduce the new concept of knowledge sovereignty, similar to food sovereignty, so that communities have the inalienable right to practice, pass down and evolve their traditional knowledge, while respecting their identity and culture without anyone being able to interfere. This is another fundamental civil achievement which the Terra Madre food communities and the Slow Food network can proudly present to the world..

Carlo Petrini
President of Slow Food International


 
Join a great international

community that defends sustainable agriculture, fishing and breeding.
Celebrate the pleasure that the finest foods in the world offer us in all their variety.
servicecentre
@slowfood.com

 
       


Photo:
School garden in Uganda
 


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CALENDAR

Terra Madre Tanzania
May 29 - 30, 2009
Dar Es Salam, Tanzania

Savoirs et Saveurs de Montagne
May 13-14, 2009
Gap, France

Journées Gastronomiques
Nord Sud

June 18-20, 2009
Libreville, Gabon


Terra Madre Argentina
August 13-16, 2009
Buenos Aires, Argentina


Cheese
September 18 - 21, 2009
Bra, Italia

Slow Food Nippon
Octpber 23 - 25, 2009
Yokohmama, Giappone

Terra Madre Austria
October 28 - 29, 2009
Vienna, Austria

Slow Fisch
November 6 - 8 2009
Brema, Germania

EURO GUSTO & Terra Madre for Young Europeans
November 27-30, 2009
Tours, France

Vignerons d'Europe
December 5 - 8, 2009
Firenze, Italy

ALGUSTO – Saber y Sabor
December 11-14, 2009
Bilbao, Spain



 



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Slow Food Almanac

The Slow Food Almanac 2008 has been published recently in English, Italian, Spanish, German, French. you can view an electronic version of the Almanac here.

communication @slowfood.com

 


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Slow Food and
Terra Madre
in figures


Members: 100.000
Convivia: 1.000
Countries: 150
Presidia: 306
Ark of Taste products: 813
Earth Markets: 9
School gardens: 300

 


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  12 Ways to Eat Slow from Slow Food France

1. Give yourself (some) pleasure.
Take the time to taste and pay attention to your senses: this is the best way to eat well.

2. Bring the seasons to the table.
Each season rediscover the pleasure of tastes you haven’t experienced for a year.

3. Think global, eat local.
Choose products from farmers and growers near to your home: you will help to strengthen the local economy and the links between people living in your area.

4. Eat something you have grown…
…and grow something you eat. This is the best way to get in touch with nature.

5. Meet farmers, growers, artisans and specialized sellers in person.
Buy products with a short chain (through farmer’s markets, purchasing groups) or from artisans (bakers, cured meat and cheese makers) or from specialized competent sellers.

6. Be Inquisitive.
When in a shop, restaurant, bar or supermarket, ask questions about product quality.

7. Choose products of animal origin with particular care.
When you eat meat, always choose grass pasture products (veal, lamb) or free range products (pork, poultry).

8. Vary your diet to defend agricultural biodiversity.
Try rare and unusual varieties of potatoes, cereals, fruit and vegetables.

9. Eat natural wholefoods, choose non-processed products.
Processed ready-to-eat foods contain many modified food products and fats of low nutritional value.

10. Cook!
This is the best way to save money and know exactly what you are eating. It is a daily pleasure you can give yourself and those you love.

11. Spend better, spend less.
Eating better does not necessarily mean spending more, don’t cut down on quality.

12. Become a taste explorer.
Educate children, friends and acquaintances about the true pleasure of eating.
 


 






 
  This newsletter is produced by the Slow Food Internation Communication' office
 Bess Mucke: b.mucke@slowfood.com -  Michèle Mesmain: m.mesmain@slowfood.com
Per tutte le questioni associative contattate il Centro Servizi: centroservizi@slowfood.it
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