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The newsletter for all members of the Terra Madre
network, defenders of sustainable
agriculture, fishing and breeding



 
  Projects


A school for young farmers in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru

For ten years our association, Urpichallay, has been helping small farming families in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca. We are keen to improve the quality of education in rural areas of the country, to promote the development of areas of farmland (chacras), and generally to revive and promote indigenous cultures and the Andean heritage.

The work we have carried out to help small farmers improve their crops on the chacras has also benefited our association. It has enabled us to discover the traditional techniques and know-how of local agriculture, which still has a strong spiritual connection with nature. We have learned how people sow and harvest, and how it has been possible to conserve the 120 potato varieties of that still withstand the continuous menace of hybrid seeds.

In 2006 Urpichallay took another step forward when it set up a school of Andean cuisine (La Casa del Saber) for the young farmers of Yachay Wayin. The cooking lessons turned out to be an excellent opportunity for the young people to use, find out more about and enjoy the products they have always grown. During festivals held by the communities we rediscovered more than 100 recipes for now virtually unknown dishes, beverages, desserts and bread. We hope that with our help the young people can find new opportunities for work. The skills gained will add value to the farming work they already do within the family. By making use of local micro-commerce and gastronomic tourism, they will be able to contribute to the development of the whole community.

Beatriz Rojas
Asociación Urpichallay; Escuela de Jóvenes Campesinos
bearojasberrocal@hotmail.com


 

In the region of the Peruvian Andes, chacra is the name given to areas of land that are cultivated; the fields may be small or fairly large. But more than cultivation is involved. ‘Making chacra’ is also a ritual and festival to thanking the gods for enabling local people to benefit from the fruit of the Earth. Cultivating a chacra means enriching and regenerating the land. Each chacra, worked by different people, is as unique as a seed.

 

When the cinema focuses on food...

There are many examples to illustrate the close links between the cinema and food. There is nothing surprising about this relationship, which allows the world of gastronomy to be described through films, documentaries and other audiovisual means. At the prestigious Berlin Film Festival in Germany, the culinary world is the main focus of a special section (Eat, Drink, See Movies – Celebrating Culinary Cinema) organized in conjunction with Slow Food International. You can talk about food in many different ways and Slow Food recognizes the communicative power of audiovisual approaches. In collaboration with the Cineteca di Bologna and the City of Bologna, Slow Food is now organizing Slow Food on Film, a festival that aims to promote a new critical awareness of food culture through films, shorts, documentaries and TV series which present original perspectives on food, the problems of agriculture and food memories as a heritage to be defended.
Films have addressed these issues for some time and sometimes they clearly focus on products and producers, as is the case with two documentaries made during 2007:

Semillas sagradas, by Andrea Mendez Brandam, Juan Nicolas Broens and Maria Teresa Morresi, is a journey through the senses and taste in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, a wide valley in north eastern Argentina. The film portrays people who recognize and are recovering the most valuable thing the earth can offer: seeds, the custodians of biodiversity and future food sovereignty.

M. Bené goes to Italy, by Manuel Lampreia Carvalho (to be presented at the Berlinale festival), describes the life and the experience at Terra Madre 2006 of Benedito Batista da Silva, a 60-year-old producer of manioc flour in the Amazon region, in Brasil.

These productions are inspired by the exemplary efforts of all those who strive constantly to ensure the survival and recognition of plants, animal species and traditional agricultural methods in the areas where they live.

For more information:
www.berlinale.de
www.slowfoodonfilm.it

Semillas sagradas:
www.noticiaspositivas.org

M. Bené goes to Italy:
Manuel Lampreia Carvalho, director
manuel@email.iis.com.br
Teresa Corsão, Terra Madre Cook, producer of the documentary
tcorcao@terra.com.br


Focus on...

Underutilized species

There are thousands of plants in the ‘neglected and underutilized’ category that have a significant, largely unexploited, potential to contribute to food security and to improve the quality of life. Underutilized plant species are characterized by their good adaptability and ability to survive in marginal areas, for their local production and consumption importance, their significant nutritional and medicinal properties, and their many varied uses. Since they have been used for centuries, we are not talking about introduced plants, but indigenous ones which play a central role in the cultural identity of local communities. For this reason efforts to protect them will be of fundamental importance in defending the ancient traditions and culture associated with them.

These plants are unfortunately neglected because they are more difficult to cultivate, transform and commercialize. This has discouraged their use.

Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized Species

Since 2002 the Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized Species (GFU) has operated with the objective of encouraging wider use of these plants. Activities will focus on networking and exchanging information by means of an internet portal, together with practical initiatives to raise awareness and promote the inclusion of these species in national and international development plans. The GFU analyzes government policies and makes recommendations that can generate suitable environments for their sustainable use. It also strives to create an awareness of the importance of underutilized species for improving the quality of life. Creating a favorable environment so these treasures of nature are better known and sustainably used will benefit everyone!

Paul Bordoni
Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized Species
underutilized-species@cgiar.org
www.underutilized-species.org



Slow Food
key words


The Ark of Taste

The Ark of Taste is a project created by the Slow Food association in 1996. It is a metaphorical vessel traveling around the world, helping small-scale products of high gastronomic value threatened by industrial agriculture, environmental degradation and standardization. The Ark seeks out, catalogs and nominates flavors that are endangered and need protection, but are still alive and have real potential. With the help of monitoring carried out by Slow Food Convivia around the world, the Scientific Ark Commission evaluates cured meats, cheeses, cereals, vegetables and local breeds using specific selection criteria: gastronomic excellence, a connection with the local area, artisan production, a sustainable approach by producers, and products at risk of extinction.

Japan is a country where the Ark project has been welcomed with particular enthusiasm. The Japanese Ark was formed in 2005, when the commission selected the first nine products: the tankaku cattle breed, etari in brine (anchovies macerated and fermented in brine using traditional artisan methods), the roasted and smoked goby yakihaze from Nagatsura Bay, two local types of turnip (hanazukuri daikon and akkajidaikon), yukina (a leaf vegetable grown in the area of Yonezawa), Amarume leek, hachiretsu corn and unzen kobu takana (an ecotype of takana, distinctive for the ‘knots’ on its leaves). There are now 20 Ark products and over time the project has strengthened the links between Japanese Ark producers and the Slow Food network, which is actively involved in presenting and promoting them.

For more information:

Ark of Taste project
www.fondazioneslowfood.it
Slow Food Japan
www.slowfoodjapan.net




Voices from Terra Madre

  I like to think I am like a salmon struggling to swim upstream, though it would be much easier to behave like others or as other people would like... Our product, Sulmona red garlic, expresses our traditions. It has an authentic, unique flavor that describes our land and portrays our knowledge.

Terra Madre introduced me to a wonderful world: I didn't think there were so many of us all over the world who refuse to submit to the standardization of flavors and knowledge! Being part of this great network gives me strength and enthusiasm, which I try to pass on to my community.
 
     
 
Antonella Ciavattone
Producer of Sulmona red garlic in the Abruzzo region of Italy
info@agliorossodisulmona.it
 
 


Food Traditions


Saving traditional products can be a question of survival

Nowadays more than 50% of the native population of Arizona suffers from the devastating effects of diabetes, a percentage significantly higher than the American national average. In Mexico, 3.8 million people are affected by pathological conditions which can be directly linked to the move away from diets based on the traditional products of their arid land (such as corn, cholla cactus buds, mesquite flour, tepary beans, and marrows), which had fed local people for centuries, to western diets high in fat and sugar.

Common desert plants such as prickly pear, mesquite and creosote, slow down digestion and the absorption of sugar, helping to reduce cholesterol levels in the blood. For the indigenous people of desert regions, these plants, cacti and seeds are precious because they enable them to survive, and besides nutritional value, have unique, delicious flavors.


 
  TELL US ABOUT YOUR TRADITIONS!
Describe your community, your regional dishes and the occasions on which you eat them. We’ll post the best entries in this section: communication@slowfood.com
 
 
 

Emergency ethnology

The famous anthropologist Claude Lévi-Strauss has recently begun to speak about ‘emergency ethnology’. Referring to the value of indigenous societies, he has stressed the importance of defending them. This is not just because of ethical concerns or scientific utility. ‘However different these remaining societies might be from each other, they agree in making humans a recipient and not a master of creation. This is the lesson that ethnology has learnt from them, and we hope that when they join the global community these societies can help it keep its integrity and we can be inspired by their example.’

This vision of humans as ‘recipients’ of nature is the essence of what we have lost and what the Terra Madre network should promote as the inspiring principle of its activity. With the loss of this vision we have also lost the meaning of time, the value of food, part of our identity and the essence of our humanity.

For this reason it is important to protect indigenous communities, but it must be an active undertaking: it is particularly important to get to know and establish an equal and respectful relationship with them. Let’s do all we can, along with Lévi-Strauss, to ensure that the entry of indigenous communities into the ‘global community’—embracing our countries, Terra Madre and Slow Food in general—does not lead to the loss of their vision of the world. It should, on the contrary, be something they can be proud of. Let's help them to understand that they are not of interest to us just because they possess valuable diversity and enrich the network, but also because they represent a model we can look to and learn from.

Let's help them to understand that we need them even more than they need us.

Carlo Petrini

 
 

Join a great international community that defends sustainable agriculture, fishing and breeding.
Celebrate the pleasure that the finest foods in the world offer us in all their variety

servicecentre
@slowfood.com

 


Send us your queries and your comments, share your stories and experiences. We’ll publish them here.

communication
@slowfood.com

 
you’ll find photos, videos and audio recordings
from Terra Madre 2006
 
 
 

 

Your Questions Answered

 

Can you help us get in touch with fellow Terra Madre fisherfolk
interested in setting up a small local commercial network?

Jan and Barbara Goede Vissers
Community of Friesian Islands fisherfolk, Netherlands
TS31@goedevissers.nl

 

Jan and Barbara would like to set up a small commercial network of seafood products supplied by fishermen who work locally and in a sustainable manner, starting for example, with salted, smoked or canned fish.

They believe that small-scale commerce would be a good way for cultures and communities to interact. Then, when the fishermen have their own buyers and have access to a diversified international customer base, they would be less dependent on the overwhelming power of local consumers.

For fishermen interested in creating a network of this type, Jan and Barbara would like to mention the following two opportunities:

- Fish International, to be held in Bremen from February 10 to 12, a large event dedicated to sustainable fishing and seafood products. Jan and Barbara will have a small stand with products from the coasts of the Wadden and North Sea. In spite of the limited area they can find space to display products from other fishermen who share their philosophy.

- Jan and Barbara have been given responsibility for setting up the fish department in an Amsterdam supermarket which will only sell ‘good, clean and fair’ food. The fresh fish will of course be sourced locally. The supermarket is also looking for packaged seafood which could be supplied by producers in the Terra Madre network.



 
  Did You Know that?


Why they eat green beans in Burkina Faso

In the past, the economic situation and global politics made Burkina Faso in western Africa become a producer of green beans. This crop, which was solely for export given the lack of a domestic market, was supposed to generate income and improve the living conditions and economy in the country. Burkina Faso therefore dedicated some of its most fertile land to growing green beans for export mainly to France.

The population, accustomed to a diet based on wild foods and local crops, gradually saw their rural areas change.

However, this ‘export-oriented’ model soon came up against a series of external factors: competitor countries entered the international market, the requirements of European consumers changed and due to food safety issues, quality standards for food became increasingly strict. The situation became particularly critical when France decided to suspend imports of green beans from Burkina Faso. The crisis was so serious that the government decided that government employees on fixed salaries would have to accept part of their pay in kind—in green beans!

The experience of Burkina Faso is a good example of how food habits and agricultural methods can change due to external causes. It showed the extreme vulnerability of products exported to international markets and helped to reopen the debate on how the rules of large-scale commercialization affect the fortunes of exporting countries.