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The newsletter for all members of the Terra Madre
network, defenders of sustainable
agriculture, fishing and breeding
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Projects
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A school for young farmers in the Cordillera Blanca in Peru |
For ten years our association, Urpichallay, has been helping
small farming families in the Peruvian Cordillera Blanca.
We are keen to improve the quality of education in rural
areas of the country, to promote the development of areas
of farmland (chacras), and generally to revive
and promote indigenous cultures and the Andean heritage.
The work we have carried out to help small farmers improve
their crops on the chacras has also benefited
our association. It has enabled us to discover the traditional
techniques and know-how of local agriculture, which still
has a strong spiritual connection with nature. We have
learned how people sow and harvest, and how it has been
possible to conserve the 120 potato varieties of that
still withstand the continuous menace of hybrid seeds.
In 2006 Urpichallay took another step forward when it
set up a school of Andean cuisine (La Casa del Saber)
for the young farmers of Yachay Wayin. The cooking lessons
turned out to be an excellent opportunity for the young
people to use, find out more about and enjoy the products
they have always grown. During festivals held by the communities
we rediscovered more than 100 recipes for now virtually
unknown dishes, beverages, desserts and bread. We hope
that with our help the young people can find new opportunities
for work. The skills gained will add value to the farming
work they already do within the family. By making use
of local micro-commerce and gastronomic tourism, they
will be able to contribute to the development of the whole
community.
Beatriz Rojas
Asociación Urpichallay; Escuela de Jóvenes Campesinos
bearojasberrocal@hotmail.com
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In
the region of the Peruvian Andes,
chacra
is the name given to areas of land
that are cultivated; the fields may
be small or fairly large. But more
than cultivation is involved. ‘Making
chacra’ is also a ritual
and festival to thanking the gods
for enabling local people to benefit
from the fruit of the Earth. Cultivating
a chacra means enriching
and regenerating the land. Each chacra,
worked by different people, is as
unique as a seed. |
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When the cinema focuses on food... |
There are many examples to illustrate
the close links between the cinema and food. There is
nothing surprising about this relationship, which allows
the world of gastronomy to be described through films,
documentaries and other audiovisual means. At the prestigious
Berlin Film Festival in Germany, the
culinary world is the main focus of a special section
(Eat, Drink, See Movies – Celebrating Culinary Cinema)
organized in conjunction with Slow Food International.
You can talk about food in many different ways and Slow
Food recognizes the communicative power of audiovisual
approaches. In collaboration with the Cineteca di Bologna
and the City of Bologna, Slow Food is now organizing
Slow Food on Film, a festival that
aims to promote a new critical awareness of food culture
through films, shorts, documentaries and TV series which
present original perspectives on food, the problems
of agriculture and food memories as a heritage to be
defended.
Films have addressed these issues for some time and
sometimes they clearly focus on products and producers,
as is the case with two documentaries made during 2007:
Semillas sagradas, by Andrea Mendez Brandam,
Juan Nicolas Broens and Maria Teresa Morresi, is a journey
through the senses and taste in the Quebrada de Humahuaca,
a wide valley in north eastern Argentina. The film portrays
people who recognize and are recovering the most valuable
thing the earth can offer: seeds, the custodians of
biodiversity and future food sovereignty.
M. Bené goes to Italy, by Manuel Lampreia Carvalho
(to be presented at the Berlinale festival), describes
the life and the experience at Terra Madre 2006 of Benedito
Batista da Silva, a 60-year-old producer of manioc flour
in the Amazon region, in Brasil.
These productions are inspired by the exemplary efforts
of all those who strive constantly to ensure the survival
and recognition of plants, animal species and traditional
agricultural methods in the areas where they live.
For more information:
www.berlinale.de
www.slowfoodonfilm.it
Semillas sagradas:
www.noticiaspositivas.org
M. Bené goes to Italy:
Manuel Lampreia Carvalho, director
manuel@email.iis.com.br
Teresa Corsão, Terra Madre Cook, producer of
the documentary
tcorcao@terra.com.br
Focus on...
Underutilized species
There are thousands of plants in the ‘neglected and
underutilized’ category that have a significant, largely
unexploited, potential to contribute to food security
and to improve the quality of life. Underutilized plant
species are characterized by their good adaptability
and ability to survive in marginal areas, for their
local production and consumption importance, their significant
nutritional and medicinal properties, and their many
varied uses. Since they have been used for centuries,
we are not talking about introduced plants, but indigenous
ones which play a central role in the cultural identity
of local communities. For this reason efforts to protect
them will be of fundamental importance in defending
the ancient traditions and culture associated with them.
These plants are unfortunately neglected because they
are more difficult to cultivate, transform and commercialize.
This has discouraged their use.
Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized Species
Since 2002 the Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized
Species (GFU) has operated with the objective of encouraging
wider use of these plants. Activities will focus on
networking and exchanging information by means of an
internet portal, together with practical initiatives
to raise awareness and promote the inclusion of these
species in national and international development plans.
The GFU analyzes government policies and makes recommendations
that can generate suitable environments for their sustainable
use. It also strives to create an awareness of the importance
of underutilized species for improving the quality of
life. Creating a favorable environment so these treasures
of nature are better known and sustainably used will
benefit everyone!
Paul Bordoni
Global Facilitation Unit for Underutilized Species
underutilized-species@cgiar.org
www.underutilized-species.org
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Slow Food
key words |
The Ark of Taste
The Ark of Taste is a project created by the Slow Food
association in 1996. It is a metaphorical vessel traveling
around the world, helping small-scale products of high
gastronomic value threatened by industrial agriculture,
environmental degradation and standardization. The Ark
seeks out, catalogs and nominates flavors that are endangered
and need protection, but are still alive and have real
potential. With the help of monitoring carried out by
Slow Food Convivia around the world, the Scientific
Ark Commission evaluates cured meats, cheeses, cereals,
vegetables and local breeds using specific selection
criteria: gastronomic excellence, a connection with
the local area, artisan production, a sustainable approach
by producers, and products at risk of extinction.
Japan is a country where the Ark project
has been welcomed with particular enthusiasm. The Japanese
Ark was formed in 2005, when the commission selected
the first nine products: the tankaku cattle
breed, etari in brine (anchovies macerated
and fermented in brine using traditional artisan methods),
the roasted and smoked goby yakihaze from Nagatsura
Bay, two local types of turnip (hanazukuri daikon
and akkajidaikon), yukina (a leaf
vegetable grown in the area of Yonezawa), Amarume
leek, hachiretsu corn and unzen kobu takana
(an ecotype of takana, distinctive for the
‘knots’ on its leaves). There are now 20 Ark products
and over time the project has strengthened the links
between Japanese Ark producers and the Slow Food network,
which is actively involved in presenting and promoting
them.
For more information:
Ark of Taste project
www.fondazioneslowfood.it
Slow Food Japan
www.slowfoodjapan.net
Voices from
Terra Madre
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I like to think I am like a salmon struggling
to swim upstream, though it would be much
easier to behave like others or as other people
would like... Our product, Sulmona red garlic,
expresses our traditions. It has an authentic,
unique flavor that describes our land and
portrays our knowledge.
Terra Madre introduced me to a wonderful world:
I didn't think there were so many of us all
over the world who refuse to submit to the
standardization of flavors and knowledge!
Being part of this great network gives me
strength and enthusiasm, which I try to pass
on to my community. |
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Antonella Ciavattone
Producer of Sulmona red garlic in the Abruzzo
region of Italy
info@agliorossodisulmona.it
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Food Traditions
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Saving traditional products can be a question of survival |
Nowadays more than 50% of the native population of Arizona
suffers from the devastating effects of diabetes, a percentage
significantly higher than the American national average.
In Mexico, 3.8 million people are affected by pathological
conditions which can be directly linked to the move away
from diets based on the traditional products of their
arid land (such as corn, cholla cactus buds,
mesquite flour, tepary beans, and marrows),
which had fed local people for centuries, to western diets
high in fat and sugar.
Common desert plants such as prickly pear, mesquite
and creosote, slow down digestion and the absorption
of sugar, helping to reduce cholesterol levels in the
blood. For the indigenous people of desert regions, these
plants, cacti and seeds are precious because they enable
them to survive, and besides nutritional value, have unique,
delicious flavors.
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TELL US ABOUT
YOUR TRADITIONS!
Describe your community,
your regional dishes and the occasions
on which you eat them. We’ll post
the best entries in this section:
communication@slowfood.com
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Emergency
ethnology
The famous anthropologist
Claude Lévi-Strauss has recently begun to speak
about ‘emergency ethnology’. Referring to the
value of indigenous societies, he has stressed
the importance of defending them. This is not
just because of ethical concerns or scientific
utility. ‘However different these remaining societies
might be from each other, they agree in making
humans a recipient and not a master of creation.
This is the lesson that ethnology has learnt from
them, and we hope that when they join the global
community these societies can help it keep its
integrity and we can be inspired by their example.’
This vision of humans as ‘recipients’ of nature
is the essence of what we have lost and what the
Terra Madre network should promote as the inspiring
principle of its activity. With the loss of this
vision we have also lost the meaning of time,
the value of food, part of our identity and the
essence of our humanity.
For this reason it is important to protect indigenous
communities, but it must be an active undertaking:
it is particularly important to get to know and
establish an equal and respectful relationship
with them. Let’s do all we can, along with Lévi-Strauss,
to ensure that the entry of indigenous communities
into the ‘global community’—embracing our countries,
Terra Madre and Slow Food in general—does not
lead to the loss of their vision of the world.
It should, on the contrary, be something they
can be proud of. Let's help them to understand
that they are not of interest to us just because
they possess valuable diversity and enrich the
network, but also because they represent a model
we can look to and learn from.
Let's help them to understand that we need them
even more than they need us.
Carlo Petrini
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Join
a great international community that defends sustainable
agriculture, fishing and breeding.
Celebrate the pleasure that the finest foods in
the world offer us in all their variety
servicecentre
@slowfood.com |
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Your Questions Answered
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Can you help us get in touch
with fellow Terra Madre fisherfolk
interested in setting up a small local commercial
network?
Jan
and Barbara Goede Vissers
Community of Friesian Islands fisherfolk, Netherlands
TS31@goedevissers.nl
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Jan and Barbara would like to set up
a small commercial network of seafood products supplied by
fishermen who work locally and in a sustainable manner, starting
for example, with salted, smoked or canned fish.
They believe that small-scale commerce would be a good way
for cultures and communities to interact. Then, when the fishermen
have their own buyers and have access to a diversified international
customer base, they would be less dependent on the overwhelming
power of local consumers.
For fishermen interested in creating a network of this type,
Jan and Barbara would like to mention the following two opportunities:
- Fish International, to be held in Bremen
from February 10 to 12, a large event dedicated to sustainable
fishing and seafood products. Jan and Barbara will have a
small stand with products from the coasts of the Wadden and
North Sea. In spite of the limited area they can find space
to display products from other fishermen who share their philosophy.
- Jan and Barbara have been given responsibility for setting
up the fish department in an Amsterdam supermarket
which will only sell ‘good, clean and fair’ food. The fresh
fish will of course be sourced locally. The supermarket is
also looking for packaged seafood which could be supplied
by producers in the Terra Madre network.
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Did
You Know that?
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Why they eat green beans in
Burkina Faso |
In the past, the economic situation and global politics made
Burkina Faso in western Africa become a producer of green beans.
This crop, which was solely for export given the lack of a domestic
market, was supposed to generate income and improve the living
conditions and economy in the country. Burkina Faso therefore
dedicated some of its most fertile land to growing green beans
for export mainly to France.
The population, accustomed to a diet based on wild foods and
local crops, gradually saw their rural areas change.
However, this ‘export-oriented’ model soon came up against a
series of external factors: competitor countries entered the
international market, the requirements of European consumers
changed and due to food safety issues, quality standards for
food became increasingly strict. The situation became particularly
critical when France decided to suspend imports of green beans
from Burkina Faso. The crisis was so serious that the government
decided that government employees on fixed salaries would have
to accept part of their pay in kind—in green beans!
The experience of Burkina Faso is a good example of how food
habits and agricultural methods can change due to external causes.
It showed the extreme vulnerability of products exported to
international markets and helped to reopen the debate on how
the rules of large-scale commercialization affect the fortunes
of exporting countries.
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